Lina Stores King’s Cross - Kings Cross, London

We were smitten with Lina Stores when the restaurant launched on Greek Street, and equally charmed by the deli which opened on Brewer Street 75 years ago. So our expectations were high when we heard that the enterprising Italians had chosen another site on Stable Street in King's Cross. It didn't take long for us to make the trip as we were keen as mustard to see whether it would live up to its promise. 

The dining room is significantly larger than its sibling's with around 100 covers in a heritage brickwork building tucked away behind Granary Square. It sports the same pistachio and eggshell colour scheme and 1950s modernist design that won it a cult following, with an open-plan kitchen counter, orb-shaped pendant lighting and white marble tables topped with light green plates. Broad windows let in lashings of natural light. We settled in with a negroni and an amaretto sour and let the kitchen work their magic. 

Stracciatella with charred heirloom tomatoes and wild oregano was teeming with umami, the round flavours of the tomatoes teased out with a light grilling. We opted for three pasta dishes. Pici all norcina was a phenomenally hearty plate that saw the thick pasta laden with Umbrian sausage and porcini mushrooms. On the more delicate side of the spectrum, crab and scallop rondini with prawn and confit tomato melted in the mouth, while agnolotti Verdi with ricotta and black truffle was rich with cream.  We finished the meal with pistachio profiteroles bathed in dark chocolate, which were as brilliant as they read on paper. 

Lina Stores King's Cross was a great follow-up act. A great new option in the thriving King's Cross area.

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