Three storey temple to the senses
Category : Bar, Restaurant
| Cuisine : Modern British
Address : 85 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London, W1J 7NB, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.85piccadilly.co.uk
Opening Times : Mon-Fri: 7.30am-12am; Sat: 9am-12am; Sun: 9am-11:30pm
Closest Tube : Green Park
Private Dining Room : Details
Hide is most likely the biggest restaurant launch of the year in London. Celebrated chef Oli Dabbous and Mayfair wine mecca Hedonism have put together a three-level temple to the senses and billionaire's playground (although there are plenty of options for those with less). In keeping with its name, Hide even has a recondite car lift from the garage to the second-floor private dining room, in case you'd rather arrive discreetly with prompt car-to-table service.
The three floors are linked together by one of the most stunning staircases in the Smoke - which vaguely resembles elven architecture from The Lord of the Rings. Starting from the ground up, the basement (named Below) offers a handsome, autumnal cocktail bar overseen by cocktail wunderkind Oskar Kinberg, as well as one of London's most enviable wine cellars and three PDRs with distinct personalities. On the ground level (named Ground), you'll find the a la carte restaurant serving all meals from breakfast to afternoon tea to late night dinner, and on the top floor (named Above) you'll find the aforementioned lift as well as the fine dining restaurant, which serves from a tasting menu.
It's here that we enjoyed our lunch, overlooking the teeming greenery of St James's Park through the floor-to-ceiling windows, bathed in natural light, sipping from Riedel glassware. Upon taking our seats, we were offered a conventional wine list as well as a tablet with all of Hedonism's offerings, which can be special ordered from the shop and delivered to your table in 15 minutes. We instead opted for a couple flutes of Champagne Petit & Bajan, excellent partners to the plate of amuse bouche that arrived, comprising of pickled, steamed and raw vegetables; charcuterie spun around bird feathers; and a mushroom soup.
What followed was a delicious symphony of food and wine. We were blown away by the starters: a tartare of heritage beetroot, blueberry vinegar, rose petals and crushed pistachios overpoured with raw horseradish cream as well as slow roast organic carrots, Graceburn and tarragon in a light lamb broth. An ovoid chocolate egg with London stout was a sight to be seen, imbued with a delicious, creamy ganache. We rounded off the meal with petit fours of burnt liquorice root and gold leaf. Hide is many things but above all it is a culinary odyssey that's worth the journey.