Hawksmoor Borough - London Bridge, London

Borough has come a long way since Bridget Jones. The neighbourhood was once known for its market and the droves of tourists it attracted, and yeah, it still is, but has recently become a foodie destination it its own right with some of the best spots for various cuisines in the capital. Hawksmoor has jumped on this trend and opened their sixth steakhouse in London. The tortuous Dickensian streets are a good fit for their brand, as we discovered during a Thursday evening visit. 

Situated in a converted Victorian hop warehouse and fruit auction hall, the restaurant has been reconfigured by McCauley Sinclair to pay homage to its previous incarnation with timber beams and wooden columns reclaimed in the 19th century from cargo ships that were scuttled and dismantled. The same parquet flooring, mid-century modern chairs and lighting and laboratory tabletops are evident from the other restaurants, however the Borough site differs in that it allows an abundance of natural light to stream through the windows. Downstairs in the basement you'll find a Cook's Room where Richard Turner and colleagues will experiment with new recipes. 

The first dishes to arrive during the busy Thursday service were Tamworthy belly ribs and potted beef and bacon with Yorkshire puddings. The former were deboned and sumptuous on the palate, rubbed with molasses and vinegar. They'd give ribs from the US a run for the money. The latter was a charming homage to one of Britain's most cherished Sunday traditions. 

For mains there are a number of fish dishes on the menu, including lemon sole and monkfish grilled over charcoal, but we were in a more sanguinary frame of mind and opted for what Hawksmoor is most renowned for - its steaks. For the truly hungry, you can share a bone-in prime rib, t-bone, porterhouse or chateaubriand, however we opted for the fillet steak and ribeye with a couple ramekins of béarnaise, triple cooked fries, cauliflower cheese and creamed spinach. Not only are the steaks easily some of the best in Britain, but the sides exhibit a finesse that would require a skilled hand to accomplish at home. 

We wrapped our meal up with a maple, walnut and rye tart served with goat's milk ice cream as well dripping doughnuts, which either arrive with maple bacon or rhubarb and custard. Suffice to say, both were on point. This latest opening reaffirmed what we already knew - Hawksmoor remains at the top of its game.