GOAT - Chelsea, London

One of the great things about living in London is the deep undercurrents of history running through every property. GOAT, an Italian restaurant/lounge/speakeasy, is one such venue. It's situated in the former abode of The Goat in Boots, a pub that traced its origins back across three centuries. This newest reboot was spearheaded by Katia and Steve Manktelow, who formerly plied their trade at Boujis keeping Chelsea's well-heeled well-lubricated - and certainly know their way around a good time. We were excited when we had the opportunity to return and reinvestigate GOAT's offerings.

The venue is spread over three separate spaces with a handsome hunter green panelled wall and dark navy buttonback banquettes that counterbalances the abundance of natural light coming in through the capacious windows circumscribing the room. Light woods and wrought-iron partitions imbue the spaces with a sense of Victorian heft, whilst mid-century modern desk lamps offer a bit of funkiness.

During our visit we were very happy to unwind after a full day of work, kicking back with a pair of flutes fizzing with a delicious Ayala Brut Majeur Champagne, which served as a perfect foil to our first course of calamari fritti. It was crisped up to perfection, the cephalopod offering just the right amount of snap under its carapace of golden batter, with a zingy lime aioli to dip it in. It wasn't long after before our mains arrived. A grilled 28 day ribeye on the bone was served a mouthwatering ruby red, its interstitial fat melted down to the finest deliquescence.

Pan fried cod on the other hand was pimped out with cavolo nero, shaved almonds and black garlic. It was cooked just right, its pearly white flesh calving off in heavy flakes. We were quite taken by the side orders even - crispy polenta chips served with a deep, earthy truffled mayo. Having taken a gander at the dessert menu, we'd made sure to save space. Sticky toffee pudding was as good as any we've had in Scotland, complemented with a sophisticated vanilla gelato. A stack of American-style pancakes was topped with double cream, blueberries, strawberries and a thick rope of honey. Also very good.

For a nightcap, we went upstairs to the Chelsea Prayer Room and had the Sleepless Beauty, the GOAT take on an espresso martini. Inspired by George Moorland, the artist who used to patronise The Goat and Boots and painted the sign outdoors in lieu of payment for a bill, the room has a chic, pastoral fresco painted across its walls that immediately brings to mind the glory days of England when Romantic poets and bucolic landscapes were king.

All in, GOAT has a little bit of something for everybody. Whether you want a night out in Chelsea or some sustenance beforehand, GOAT is a good spot for it.