Duke of Richmond - Shoreditch, London

After earning his stripes at his eponymous restaurant in Islington, Tom Oldroyd set his sights/site further east with the launch of The Duke or Richmond. Originally opened in 1841 under the same moniker, Oldroyd aims to restore it to its former glory with a menu that interweaves Great British gastropub fare with a thick rope of Gallic panache.

Guests can choose from three separate areas. The dining room is a study in muted elegance with pistachio coloured walls, royal blue banquettes, wooden tables and chairs and beautiful worn floorboards painted in classic geometric fashion. Alternatively, grab a pew at the bar which can accommodate up to forty drinkers, or on a sunny day (we seem to be having a lot of them recently) opt for the terrace, screened away from the pavement with verdant shrubs and topiaries.

The wine list is eclectic, straddling natural and noble. We found a 40ft Disco Pils went very well with most dishes. The starters evinced mesmerising flavour. The signature vol au vent with asparagus, pea and truffle was heartbreakingly good as was the crab souffle with crab bisque and gruyere toast. Other must haves include the roast challans duck with picholine green olives and chez allard as well as the chocolate delice with cherries and honeycomb.

Tom Oldroyd certainly knows his way around a kitchen and seems to be as confident in picking a sure bet. Duke of Richmond should live up to its lively history.