Yopo - Fitzrovia, London

The Mandrake is easily one of central London's coolest boutique hotels, with a neo-Gothic, art-forward design, one of the best courtyards in the capital, and incredible bar and restaurant spaces. For 2019 they've decided to give their eatery a shake up, switching out the Michelin-starred Hong Kong sister venture Serge et le Phoque for Yopo. Named for the rare hallucinogenic Amazonian plant endemic to Venezuela, this newest project imports the free spirit and bold flavours of South America to the heart of Fitzrovia. 

The dining room is a force to be reckoned with, adjoining the jasmine-festooned courtyard and packed to the rafters with striking flora to create a fierce, jungly vibe with DJs spinning throughout the evening. Otherwise the space comes complete with exposed brickwork, gorgeous textured wooden tables and a striking hand-painted ceiling mural. It's an edgy yet sophisticated room and opens up nicely during the summer months. 

The menu merges classic techniques with boundary-pushing ingredients. The results? Spectacular. An introductory salvo of potato churros with coffee and bottarga was a savoury showstopper. A dish of duck breast with quince and braised endives flirted with perfection, particularly when paired with cream tenderstem broccoli and XO sauce. Octopus with aji pancha, avocado and tomatillo was a MexiPeruvian masterwork as was smoked aubergine with sea herbs and lemon. 

We were sad to see Serge go but very pleased with Yopo for stepping in. For elegant yet unfussy dining in an achingly cool setting, Yopo at The Mandrake is a shoo-in.