Trishna - Marylebone, London

Hot on the heels of Gymkhana's wild success, chef proprietor Karam Sethi decided to do a little relaunch of his original restaurant, Trishna, with a redesigned interior, new dishes and an updated wine list from his sister and Zagat 30 Under 30 award winner, Sunaina Sethi. B3 Designers, who've proved their mettle with Roka, 28-50 and, of course, Gymkhana, have worked the same prestidigitation with Trishna, softening the stripped back aesthetic with pale blue reclaimed timber panelling, smoky vintage mirrors and a marble-topped bar. On a recent visit, the food and the wine were prefect. This included nandu varuval - a crisp soft shell crab without a drop of grease on it nor the superfluity of the crustacean innards that can often put diners off. Green chilli and garlic imbued it with savour and piquancy, while a white crab chutney served as a soothing, buttery foil. Ajwaini salmon tikka boasted a spicy exterior expertly offset by a creamy puddle of dill raita, and even more so by a Croatian Grimalda, which played out smoothly as if intimating the oakiness of a Chardonnay without committing to its heaviness. A Tulsi scallop with crunchy chickpea exhibited an immensely appealing interplay of texture, not to mention a sturdy meatiness and good-looking presentation. Again, the wine pairing, this one a NZ Pinot Noir, elevated the dish to new heights. Tandoori lamb chops were borderline pornographic, particularly when paired with Trishna's irresistible roast potatoes and a Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc. There was a symphonic blend of spiciness from the outset, you could feel it coming on after taking a whiff of the wine, but when combining all of the elements the experience really went next level. We would have happily consumed a whole meal of this - out of a bucket - even if the spices laid us low for a week. All in, Trishna looks poised to remain a titan of Indian cuisine for years to come, and well deserving of its Michelin star.