The World's End Market - Chelsea, London

Sloane rangers will want to saddle up, direct their trusty steeds west, trot down the King's Road and come into stable at World's End Market, where some of Britain's freshest produce will be grilled to perfection quicker than you can say 'Made in Chelsea'. Opened by Bubker Belkhit, executive chef at Sumosan, the restaurant aims to provide unfussy yet superlatively sourced dishes - prepared simply to let the quality of the fare shine through.

There was a palpable buzz in the air when we visited on a Thursday evening. The former 17th century public house and  Grade II listed building has been given a restrained yet sophisticated refit, oozing old world class with chequered flooring, white tiled walls, shiny brass pendant lighting, a dark wooden bar with marble top and slick peppermint green leatherbound stools. Leather banquettes of the same colour circumscribe the room, whilst unadorned wooden tables run the length of it. One of its centrepieces was a glass display showcasing the vividly coloured fish, shellfish and meat awaiting the Josper grill.  

We whet our appetite with some Isle Garden cocktails - a muddling of basil, cumber, honey and lime with gin and chartreuse - and took in the setting. The crowd was Chelsea in a nutshell - running the gamut from blinged-out Russians to glamorous young Brits to a boisterous family birthday. The menu stresses the ethics and locality of WEM's ingredients. From this we opted for the grilled scallops. They were cooked perfectly with a kiss of charcoal cutting through the sweetness - served with a salad, lemon wedge and salsa verde. A starter of tuna tartar came with North African accoutrement: spiced Aubergine and a cumin mayo.

For our mains we enjoyed sea bass and Brixham monkfish. Both were Josper seared to seal in the flavour. Both were served with freshly made chips and a roasted array of vegetables. Both were very nice indeed. We finished things off with a hazelnut and caramel cheesecake energetically recommended by our waitress. It arrived in a glass ramekin, a buttery biscuit on its bottom topped up with a creamy soft cheese filling with a thick filigree of caramel and hazelnuts at its top.

All in, we were very happy with World's End Market. The experience is worthy of its legendary location.