The Hunter's Moon - Chelsea, London

There's something almost ineffable about a Chelsea pub when the weather takes a turn for the chill. There's perhaps nowhere more inviting as a venue to ply oneself with rich food and strong drink to stave off winter just a little longer. The Hunter's Moon is just that. As the first launch of the burgeoning Lunar Pub Company, they seem to be on a promising path. We visited on a brisk Wednesday evening to do some reconnaissance. 

There's a wee pub in the entry that seats 25 with a 45-cover dining room in the back. Given a lick of hunter green paint, with darkwood flooring and leather-upholstered seating, the pub is an inviting place to kick back, while the dining room has been given an austere treatment with white tiling and mid-century modern pendant lighting that in many ways recalls St John. As for chefs, they've hired Oliver Marlowe of Glasshouse and Chez Bruce and David Halewood of The Coach to handle the menu. 

We kicked off with a rich-as-sin foie gras and chicken liver parfait with white wine jelly and toasted brioche, which was bracingly earthy, even sublunary. On the other hand, an exceptional white garlic velouté served with Cornish lobster, lobster bisque and chives was quite divine. For mains, we enjoyed slow roast pork loin with morteau sausage, creamed potato, caramelised and mustard and a winning braised featherblade of beef with onion puree kale, triple cooked truffle and parmesan chips. It melted in the mouth. 

The Hunter's Moon is an excellent Chelsea pub and a great place to warm up in on a brisk winter evening.