The Cavendish - Marylebone, London

Marylebone which seems to be giving Mayfair a run for the money is the go to place for chic restaurants these days. The Cavendish, just a stone's throw from Marylebone Lane, espouses many of the same traits that turned the Chiltern Firehouse into the titan that it is. Fine dining has become the new nightclubbing as it were.

The Cavendish has been spearheaded by some of the top names in Mayfair private members' clubs. GM Ermanno Dalla Valle has fronted some of the most exclusive haunts in the capital, with stints at George Club, The Arts Club and Morton's, so guests will assuredly be well looked after. The room he presides over exudes class from every corner. There's a ground floor bar that gets quite energetic late in the week and on weekends, whilst the dining room is a comfortable melange of creamy white walls, cobalt blue buttonback leather booths, lightly varnished woods and a statement wine rack.

The kitchens are helmed by El Bulli alumni Alfonso Lillo Fas, who blazed a trail across Spain and the United Kingdom, garnering multiple accolades along the way. He brings a spirit of bravery to London dining, enmeshing Iberian classics with London ingenuity. This was exhibited in our carabinero prawn risotto, a classic Iberian dish with a deft presentation - a tian of rice was garnished with langoustine head and tail and drizzled with a potent bisque broth. A trio of ceviches were skilfully conceived, particularly the sea bass with ginger, vanilla and Jerusalem artichoke - a bit of a step up from the usual tiger's milk treatment.

We were feeling particularly carnivorous on the evening so each opted for a selection from the Josper grill. A veal chop was perfectly pink on the inside, while a fillet steak on the bone was ringed by a delicate layer of fat which drew in an exquisite flavour. Triple cooked chips were expertly fried and coupled well with a sumptuous béarnaise sauce. For dessert we opted for crepes suzette which were flambéed tableside, creating a nice piece of dining room theatre.

All in, The Cavendish is run by a stellar team who have created a self-assured and competent`menu. Whilst Mayfair may still reign as monarch of London dining, it should beware of aspirant Marylebone.