Sparrow - Mayfair, London

London is back in full swing and Mayfair attests to its rude health, with gorgeous new restaurants launching in all corners of the capital's most well-heeled borough. Sparrow, on the beautiful bystreet of Avery Row. Launched by hospitality group Noble 33, which opened its first Sparrow Italia in Los Angeles in late 2021, the Italian menu showcases the talents of chef AJ McCloud, who has created a love letter to the Mediterranean coast. 

The site that Sparrow occupies is in a five-storey building and offers a comprehensive arsenal of hospitality spaces, with a ground floor lounge and bar (with excellent bartenders, cocktails and DJs), a stunning dining room on the first floor, a parlour dining room on the second, and a cigar lounge on the third floor. The design leans heavily into art deco and mid-century modern, with smart bronze bankers lamps softly illuminating the tables, a classy gold drinks gantry above the bar, hunter green banquettes across from swooping brown leather chairs, alongside an abundance of tile insets and dark woods. We tucked into a riff on Between the Sheets cocktails crafted with Japanese whisky and settled in for delicious dining. 

Stunning crispy arancini arrived with a complement of wild mushroom risotto, parmesan, truffle aioli and truffles. Grilled octopus bedded down beautifully with baby potatoes, garlic crema and a caper and taggiasca olive sofrito. Lobster linguine did the dish justice, the local crustacean propped up with acqua pazza, lemon-parsley butter and toasted bread crumb. For dessert, we wrapped up with a citrus olive oil cake served with orange marmalade and a passion fruit gel as well as zeppole donuts with sweet whipped ricotta, Nutella ganache and a caramel sauce. 

Sparrow is of a lofty calibre with great food, service and clientele and could very well be the hot new place in London.