Quattro Passi - Removed from site 2017 (Closed) - Mayfair, London

Why is it that people return over and over to Italy to dine? Is it the flawless service? The freshness of ingredients? The romance of an ancient civilization? Or is it a perfect storm of all of these elements? Either way, it's interesting to see one of the peninsula's most sought after dining destinations bringing its offerings to bear in Mayfair.  Quattro Passi in Nerona has been one of the most sought-after restaurants in the Amalfi Coast since it opened in 1999, lauded in equal parts for its idyllic setting in a hillside grove and Antonio Mellino's pyrotechnic Italian-nouvelle cuisine. All of these factors led the restaurant to be awarded two Michelin stars and lent Mellino the confidence to bring the experience to the heart of Mayfair.

Quattro Passi translates as the 'Four Steps', and is named for the four family members running both restaurants. They bring the same familial experience for which the original restaurant is renowned to Dover Street, where their newest project is nestled amongst the many art galleries and private members clubs. The dining room has been crafted with the restaurant's genteel surroundings in mind. It is decidedly high-spec, utilising premium materials such as French silk wallpaper and hand-sculpted leather wall finishes. The statement room clearly aims to hold its own with the neighbourhood's most celebrated venues, it's clad in a variety of striking artworks with a grand piano and a handmade chandelier comprising of thousands of silk rose pedals.  There's also a generously appointed private room downstairs with its own bar, which can be entered via an internally-lit alabaster staircase.

Upon taking our seats we were struck by the efficiency and care of the service, everything was handled with aplomb. Mellino borrows a lot of his inspiration from the Campania region in southern Italy, however we were really taken by the flatbread, carasou, which was prepared in the Sardinian manner. The friable, buttery bread had been inlaid with pressed courgette leaves. We don't usually get so excited about this course, but the carasou was so good it was habit-forming, and really set the tone for the elevated fare that was to follow.

A starter of lemon risotto with lobster, zucchini and silver leaf was impeccably presented with a lobster claw perched atop the pea green rice. It was light and just ever so slightly al dente. In short, done perfectly. A gigantic raviolo impregnated with smoked cheese was an unctuous treat, particularly when immersed in tomato sauce made from grape tomatoes from Campania. For our mains, a gigantic tranche of turbot encrusted in ginger was served with Giardinera-style vegetables and a stirring citrus mayonnaise, however it wasn't quite as meaty as the rack of lamb with crumbled hazelnuts, provolone and a hazelnut fondue. The Barbados Rum Baba was an equally rich dessert, topped off with cream and black cherries, while the lemon delight was on the other side of the spectrum, a light and pithy point of departure. We were duly impressed by the dining at Quattro Passi, an experience that was evocative of a summer spent on the Amalfi Coast.