Pastaio - Soho, London

Stevie Parle's restaurant Pastaio on Soho's Ganton Street was one of the trailblazers for putting fast, fun and eminently high-quality pasta on the map. Alongside Padella and Bancone, it helped to champion cocktails and pasta you might find on a Michelin-starred menu, but at a pizza parlour price point. We dropped in to see how it had evolved, a half-decade after opening, and were happily surprised. 

The dining room exudes the eclectic kind of that lends itself to a leisurely lunch or a brisk dinner charged with engaging conversation. A white-washed mid-century design with hanging pendant lighting, wine displays and an open plan kitchen put the pasta front and centre. Marble-topped tables are tightly packed in rows, creating a brilliant buzz. Finally, an eye-popping parti-colour wall mural imbues the room with vibrancy.

After a brace of punchy Italian cocktails, we settled in for an odyssey of Italian tastiness. A black truffle and burrata fried sandwich was an exercise in rich, unctuous self indulgence, whilst a starter of puntarella, orange, anchovy and lemon zest was a symphony of salt, fat and acid. The pasta was both al dente and excellent. Parcels of lemon zest agnoli with ricotta and parsley were bathed in sage butter and parmesan. For dessert, choose from Italian classics like tiramisu and chocolate cake or a wide range of ice creams and sorbets. 

For anyone looking for a casual but accomplished dining option in central Soho, Pastaio is a sure punt.