Orrery - Marylebone, London

In the early months of 2018, Orrery celebrated its twenty-first birthday, which is quite a feat in London's fierce dining market. In those two decades it has played host to a variety of London's great fine dining talents, including: Chris Galvin, Chef Patron of the Galvin empire, André Garrett of Cliveden House, Allan Pickett, Executive Chef of the Swan at Shakespeare's Globe and Pollen Street Social's sommelier Matthew Mawtus. To fete the occasion, the Orrery team worked closely with interior design wunderkind David D'Almada of Sagrada and created a space fit for the times, a tad less buttoned-up than its former incarnation.

Inspired by Provence and the south of France, the elegant space has been reimagined with a colour palette of lilac, lavender, ivory and powder blue. There are handmade terracotta pots spread throughout to give it an undertone of earthiness that juxtapose with the laidback yet formal white linen clothed tables. The bar has been sensitively redone and is a lovely place to pitch up. Anyone who has visited the site over its storied past will remember the arched stable windows and skylights that let in lashings of natural light and views of the St Marylebone Church Courtyard. There's nowhere better than the terrace on a sunny day.

Head chef Igor Tymchyshyn has put together a refreshed menu to match the refurb. Dorset crab with mango and wasabi avocado was a light and airy introduction to the meal, dancing across the palate. A consommé of guinea fowl was a bit earthier, interlaced with tagliolini and morels. It had a depth of flavour that transported us to autumn in Piedmonte.

Flat iron steak was served with beetroot, horseradish and a red wine jus. The beef was prepared with aplomb, its red centre tender and juicy and light on the jaws. We were impressed. However, it was likely pipped by the seabass. The fish was steamed yet retained a friable crisp crust. It was complemented by wild mushroom, beetroot, horseradish and chive. We opted to finish our meal with a visit to the cheeseboard and weren't disappointed by the resident "frommelier". The selection was nothing short of divine.

Orrery has been given the nip/tuck that will ensure it retains its status for another two decades.