Norma - Fitzrovia, London

Norma is a bit of an interesting proposition. Overseen by the team behind The Game Bird (with celebrated chef Ben Tish at the helm) it's the first standalone restaurant of the Stafford Collection, which also runs the eponymous St James hotel and the Michelin-starred Northcote in the Ribble Valley. Yet what makes Norma truly unique is the way that it homes in on an area of the world and its dynamism that is mostly unscrutinised, the nexus between Sicily and northern Africa.
 
The handsome room has been decked out with statement Moorish tiling on its floors, which rivets the attention as soon as you enter past the handsome crudo bar, lit by Spanishs-style pendant lighting with mirrored alcoves that recall the Alhambra. Guests can choose to sit in either intimate booths with polished brass runners and rattan screens or on cream banquettes. Like the food itself, the dining room straddles North African and Southern European influences.
 
We kicked off with an excellent herbaceous bottle of Greco di Tufo Cutizzi, which went swimmingly with red prawn credo with rosemary orange; Westmersea oysters with fennel oil as well as cherrystone clams with saffron and shallot pickle. The roasted delica pumpkin was a good example of the admixture of north and south - padded out with English burrata, chicory, black figs and fig vinegar. A housemade aubergine parmigiana was a work of art. This overlooked item has been given the love it deserves at Norma. We wrapped up the meal with a homemade cannoli and a smile on our face.
 
Norma does its founders proud. We're excited to see what's next for the Stafford Collection.