MASH - Removed from website November 2021 (closed) - Soho, London

Over the past five years, Copenhagen's food culture has become a force to be reckoned with. Noma , touted as the world's best restaurant and then the litany of hot as the sun experimental eateries: Fiskebar, Relae, Restaurant AOC. Out of this introspective environment where molecular gastronomy is king, MASH was born. An acronym for Modern American Steak House, MASH provided Copenhagen's steakhouse concept with a much needed shot in the arm in the way that Hawksmoor and Gaucho have provided in London. After achieving ascendancy in Denmark, they've exported MASH to Soho in what was formerly an integral part of the Regent Palace Hotel on Brewer Street. The result? Impressive.

Spread across an expansive dining room awash in Art Deco opulence and reminiscent of the oceanliners of yore, MASH's reimagining of a New York steakhouse is an interesting proposition indeed. The building's original timber veneer, gold leaf architraving, mirrors and ceilings were all removed, rehabilitated by a master craftsman, and reinstalled to create a space as authentic as it is refined. Upon descending the helical staircase and entering the room, guests will be greeted by an imposing standalone iron bar, glass-fronted wine storage and a meat locker wherein one can catch a glimpse of what's to follow.

It's all in the eponym and steak dominates MASH's menu, with generous cuts available from cows across the globe, including Uruguay, Denmark, Wagyu beef from Australia and USDA certified Prime from Greater Omaha, Nebraska. The waiting staff are incredibly helpful at walking you through the different merits of each cow, while the sommeliers are equally adept at matching your meal with a selection from their immense, tome-like wine menu, which represents thousands of bins.

Starters are nuanced and draw on Copenhagen's innovative approach to food, with garlic and Pernod snails served de-shelled, heightened by rich lentils and accented with escarole and croutons or butter-fried veal sweetbreads with a red wine sauce, pickled carrots and red onions . Desserts are hearty and American-inspired. On the off chance that you don't feel satiated, indulge in pancakes with nougat and vanilla ice cream or cheesecake with raspberry sorbet and you will be. If you're truly gluttonous, couple that with a glass of Sauternes or an After Dinner Cocktail, for which they have a special selection.

We're very happy to introduce this new and exciting restaurant to Innerplace's favoured coterie of restaurants. Members and guests will now receive a complimentary glass of champagne upon arrival when dining at MASH.