Les 110 de Taillevent - Marylebone, London

One of the cardinal rules of revolution is that, for the new generation to come into its own, they must rebel against the older. London has been in the throes of a culinary renaissance for years now, and whilst many good things have come from it (cucina povera, Peruvian, championing lesser known wine varietals), a few different culinary heritages have fallen out of favour, and one of those is French cuisine. Unless it's rustic, stripped back, and selling natural and biodynamic wines, chances are that it hasn't had the easiest time staying afloat.

Which was why we were interested to see how Les 110 de Taillevent, the first international opening from the iconic French restaurant, which has most likely held Michelin stars for longer than you've lived. The fine dining restaurant is a global gustatory icon, however Taillevent was equally renowned for its wine cellars and wine-pairing restaurant. For their London outpost, the Gardinier brothers chose a Georgian townhouse on Grosvenor Square for their dining room, a high-ceilinged affair drenched in hunter green and light woods - the respective colours of vine and cask.

There are 110 glasses of wine available and sommelier Christopher Lecoufle that pairs like a veteran matchmaker. Of everything sampled we were absolutely absorbed by seared foie gras with almond and spiced bread crumble and stewed custard apple; taken by the creaminess of spelt lobster risotto immersed in a lobster bisque; entranced by highland venison with lavender, chestnut, bonbon and liquorice; and captivated by a chocolate hazelnut cremeux with pomegranate and honeycomb. 

It's often the case that during insurrections the powers-that-be are delivered to the gallows. In this case it's France - a country often accused of resting on its laurels and refusing to innovate. However, when eating French cuisine as good as what's on offer at Les 110 de Taillevent, all of these considerations evaporate with the first sip of wine taken and the forkful that makes it sing. If you'll excuse the rather stretched metaphor, it's a meal that will make a royalist of you.