Le Petit Citron, London

Hammersmith isn't in our usual beat but there are so many lovely little spots, from the River Café to The Harwood Arms, that it can be hard to resist a little field trip. Le Petit Citron, opened by husband and wife restaurateurs Lawrence and Emily Hartley, fits squarely into this category. The classic French bistro is importing the sunshine of Provence into Brook Green. We popped in on a busy Tuesday evening to investigate.

The dining room is an intimate affair and trades in many Frenchy tropes but never in a trite or cliché manner. In fact, it's all very charming: chequered jacquard tablecloths are overlaid with white; soft pendant lighting illuminates original French posters; pale green walls play off stunning, immaculately polished exposed brickwork as well as slick monochromatic tiling. We were nestled between the window through which we watched the snowfall and the oaken bar from which we ordered a delicious cassis and lavender gin and tonic as well as a delicious citron gin fizz. 

Chef-owner Lawrence came out to say hello to us in the beginning of the meal and steered us toward some of his favourite dishes.  A starter of coquille saint-jacques with pomme puree, vermouth, raisin, shallots and pine nuts smouldered was a symphony of sweet flesh and toothsome crunch, while a chicken liver and Armagnac parfait with pistachios and onion confit luxuriated in richness. Our mains were similarly suited for a cold winter evening. Lemon and garlic poussin with french beans, persillade and pine nuts was remarkably deep in flavour, while a confit belly of pork with braised puy lentils and Dijon mustard sauce was one of the best we've had.

Le Petit Citron is a beautiful addition to West London's dining scene. If you're after excellent by-the-book French recipes in an elegant, romantic setting, look no further…

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