Le Garrick - Covent Garden, London

The food scene in London is almost unrecognisable from what it once was. With the constant change, innovation and flux there's always something exciting around the corner, but if you're like us, there's comfort to be derived from visiting a classic, which is exactly what Le Garrick is. Nestled in the heart of Theatreland on Covent Garden's Garrick Street, it's the perfect bolthole to stop in before or after a show to top up your bonhomie reserves with homely, excellent French cuisine. 

We dined at Le Garrick on one of those hot summer days when enjoying an al fresco evening on the pavements was a necessity. Red and white French jacquard tablecloths married nicely with a crisp bottle of Duc de Mourney picpoul de pinet chilling down in a silver bucket. Inside, the triangular room puts together dark exposed brick walls with even darker oaken floorboards, with a variety of vintage primary-colour posters paying homage to the fin-de-siecle. Pewter wall sconces and crystal chandeliers add to the natural light. From the brilliant green façade to the specials written in makeup on the mirrors, Le Garrick is as French as a fleur de lis. 

This extends to the food. We kicked things off with an array of starters. Escargot de Bourgogne were exactly as you'd get in a Dijon bistro, laden with garlic, redolent of the earth and fully satiating. The starter that won the day was an earthenware crock of calamari stewed on the plancha with ginger and espelette pepper. It's a hero dish and deserves more plaudits. A steaming vat of mussels spiked with curry in the Brittany manner were almost equally excellent, as was a succulent tranche of lemon sole with potato and a mustard-dressed salad. Word has it that the steaks are even better - specifically the onglet.