Julie's - Notting Hill, London

Notting Hill has been having a moment in the sun of late, with stylish restaurateurs from around the globe flocking to its comely lanes to feed and entertain. Yet, prior to this recent resurgence, there was one establishment that presided over them all. Julie's was to Notting Hill and Holland Park what The Ivy was to Soho and Covent Garden. Owner Julie Hodgess made a name for herself from the 1960s feeding personages such as The Rolling Stones, Paul McCartney, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Princess Di. After a notable absence, the grande dame restaurant has returned under new ownership. We dropped in to see how it was faring.
 
Tim and Cathy Herring have retained many of the trademark designs that made Julie's standout: the stained-glass windows, Gothic wood panelling and, most notably, the scale-model Albert Memorial. However, new, Bohemian influences have been introduced which make it an easy, breezy setting to while away an afternoon. Pakistani kilims and banquettes add an air of exoticism to the dining room and make it feel very, well, Notting Hill.
 
Chef patron Shay Cooper has done a commendable job adapting a traditional menu to contemporary tastes. Case in point was a starter of charred kale risotto with Dorset crab and horseradish butter - an interesting merging of ingredients that surprised and delighted. Butter milk fried quail was cleverly complemented by a white miso emulsion. Mains were hearty affairs. Salt marsh lamb and crispy lamb breast was served with pressed cabbage, garlic potatoes and preserved lemon, while ox cheek came with veal tongue, smoked cauliflower, green pepper and a cucumber relish. Lemon Curd with lemon sorbet, coconut and fennel crumble was a welcome palate cleanser at the end of the meal. 
 
We're very happy to see this classic return to the scene and apparently it's patrons are too - it's been chock full since reopening!