Helix, London

Since Searcy's at The Gherkin opened its doors in 2003, we've been smitten with the iconic edifice, the sweeping 360 degree panoramic views and the excellent food and drink on offer. Now, for the first time, after a comprehensive rebranding and the establishment of a new chef, it's open to the public. We visited on a Thursday evening and as our ears popped as the lift swept us up to the 39^th floor and the doors opened to reveal the incredible eagle's eyrie vistas, we fell in love all over again.

In the main dining room a glossy black tiled floor played counterpoint to the bright cityscape flooding in through the convex windows. Tables of two faced outwards with larger tables occupying the centre of the room. To pay homage to the seasonal nature of the menu, large hydrangeas were situated as a centrepiece. Similarly, the cocktail list was crafted by head mixologist Federico Geniale to take inspiration from London and particularly the landmarks visible from the top of the tower. We were particularly impressed with The Little White Bird from Kensington Gardens - a light floral concoction of violet liqueur, vanilla vodka, lychee, elderflower, lemon and prosecco.

Daniel Loftin has been brought in as head chef and has put together a menu that prizes fresh produce above all else, with British dishes spiked with French and Mediterranean influences. Of everything sample we were particularly smitten by starters like the confit Suffolk chicken with a slow-cooked Burford Brown egg and sweetcorn as well as the crispy pig's head with nduja, pecorino and burnt apple. For mains it has to be the Rhug Estate Welsh lamb, bell pepper, aubergine, courgette or the line-caught wild bass, octopus, sea vegetables. And for pudding we'd opt for the excellent cheese trolley or the lemon tart with meringue, raspberries and crème fraiche.

Helix lives up to its name, both as a structure and as the apogee of dining in London.