Gaucho Charlotte Street - Fitzrovia, London

Following on from his success at M Restaurant, CEO Martin Williams returned to the chain that made him to reboot the steakhouse for the modern era. On the 25th anniversary of Gaucho's inception, he's chosen Charlotte Street as the litmus test for the relaunch, working with suppliers to ensure that the beef has the lowest carbon footprint possible, and jettisoning the cowhide and shiny surfaces that became Gaucho's calling card. We visited for an indulgent Tuesday lunch.  
 
DesignLSM's new vision for the interiors brings 1930s Argentina into focus, leaning into an earthy colour palette of ochre, navy blue and grey. Spread over two floors with a bar upstairs and a mezzanined gallery downstairs, the dining room gleams with understated glamour. It also has a bevy of new facets to recommend it. These include a beef bar, a cinema screen, an outsized private dining room as well as destination cocktails and a punchy list of wines from Argentina and abroad. Mike Reid of M has been brought in to oversee the menu.  
 
A yellowtail tiradito was of exceptional piquancy, the yuzu soy leche de tigre giving it an exception savour, amped up more by a truffle mayo and panko crumb. A fat, juicy puck of sirloin was cooked perfectly rare, its interior ruby red and skin a deep shade of brown. We complemented this with creamy bearnaise, macaroni and cheese as well as crisp chips and a supple, sexy humita. A salted dulce de leche cheesecake with toasted marshmallow made for an exceptional dessert. 

Gaucho Charlotte Street shows that you can teach an old dog new tricks. We'll look forward to seeing how it rolls out.