Foxlow Soho - Removed from website August 2021 (closed) - Soho, London

Out with the old, in with the new. So goes the saying. And Foxlow seem to be doing something similar, swapping out their Park Street setting for a more boisterous location on the media-thronged Golden Square. However, the Hawksmoor Group has managed to retain the same vibe and ethos across all of its Foxlow restaurants. And while Soho may be a far cry from Stokey, you can count on the same attention to detail, classy cuts and killer cocktails at their newest installation.

The dining room is more of a sprawling affair than the original Smithfields location with a funky art deco bar with cinema signage positioned front and centre to keep its patrons well-plied. Large floor-to-ceiling lets in lots of natural light, illuminating funky tessellated flooring, long darkwood tables and funky reclaimed wooden seats. Above the turquoise tile wainscoting, in the middle of whitewashed walls are blackboards with all of the day's special slabs of meat chalked up on the board. Like the original, the interiors borrow heavily from the Scandi eateries of Copenhagen and Stockholm.

The kitchens renovate American classics to create dishes that are packed with flavour. We assembled an amazingly satisfying meal, kicking things off with a Loire Valley Pinot Noir / Gamay from Terra Carmina, which had just the right equilibrium of soif and body. The starters draw from cuisines as disparate as North African, Brit and American. We enjoyed smoked spare ribs and crispy five pepper squid, served with a piquant yet creamy devilled mayonnaise.

For mains, we paired macaroni cheese and fried chicken, which were a match made in heaven. The mac & cheese was a gooey amalgam of cheddar and gruyere crowned with a crunchy carapace of bread golden breadcrumbs. Fried chicken was similar in colour, served with a sharp habanero vinegar. On the side, baby gem bites with parmesan were like finger sized Caesar All in, Foxlow is a very solid restaurant with reasonably prices. With Becket and Gott's history of setting trends across the City, you can expect more Foxlows to follow Clerkenwell, Chiswick, Balham and now Soho.

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