Folie - Soho, London

The Riviera is a beautiful place to eat, with amazingly fresh produce from the land and the sea and wines that reflect the sun-drenched hills and mistral breezes. However, Londoners can't always be in St Tropez or Portofino, so it's important that we have options right here in the capital, and it's good news that Folie has arrived in the heart of Soho. The kitchens have been left in the able hands of Christophe Marleix, who formerly cheffed at Hôtel Plaza Athénée; The Dorchester; Annabel's. We visited for a long Saturday lunch which turned out to be the perfect antidote to the January blues.

The resplendent dining area is situated in a long, gilt room with large windows looking out onto Golden Square. It's been given a 1970s modernist design, a trend that has been gaining inertia in London of late, with plenty of mirrors and shiny golden surfaces, fin-de-siece bankers lamps, statement bouquets and funky patterned flooring. We found a comfy nook in the corner, ordered a brace of Bloody Marys, pored over Folie's newly launched brunch menu and commenced a massively indulgent meal. 

From the Épicerie section of the menu we ordered chickpea panisse - crisp, cuboid and salty, they were the perfect aperitif. A starter of tuna tartar with brussels sprouts and pistachio was nutty and delicious with fresh, vivacious, ruby red fish while the octopus with butternut squash was meaty and sumptuous. We shared the confit lamb shoulder with confit garlic and star anise which was a massive, muscular portion. Whiling away the afternoon with that and the bottle of rich JL Chave St Joseph was an absolute pleasure. We wrapped up the meal with a dessert of chocolate, caramel and buckwheat ice cream that was the perfect departure. 

For a taste of the Riviera in central London, you can't fault Folie.