Evelyn’s Table - Soho, London

You'll find Evelyn's Table nestled on the basement level of the three-floor structure that is the Blue Posts. The totemic Rupert Street pub was recently rebooted by the team Zoe and Layo Paskin, the sibling team who received rave reviews at both The Palomar and The Barbary. Situated below the Blue Posts (pub) on the ground floor and The Mulwray (cocktail bar) on the first, this counter / chef's table is offering an extremely exciting array of Mediterranean-influenced delicacies.

The design is slickness incarnate. The white marble countertop hemming in three hyperactive chefs is inarguably the centrepiece of the room, lit by brass art deco pendant lamps that softly illuminate the beautiful plates. Otherwise, the flooring is tessellated in black and white, the walls are painted a deep hunter green, and the wooden high-top chairs are upholstered with a smooth brown suede that's as easy on the eyes at it is on the posterior.

We opened up our palates with a lively bottle of Antonelli Trebium Trebbiano Spoletino and then tucked into the food, which was presented plate by plate (we shared). Cod beignet were fried into perfectly brown spheroids and served with taramasalata and smoked paprika. We split two pasta dishes which were picture perfect. Tagliatelle was laced with impeccably fresh asparagus, broad beans and pecorino, whilst a spaghetti allo scoglio was laden with a fisherman's bounty of palourde clams, prawns, halibut and mussels, all shot through with a hit of garlic.

Our favourite dish was arguably the main. A tranche of lemon sole was cooked on the plancha, layered with a leek and smoked eel gratin and topped with medallions of thinly sliced courgette. It was mind-blowingly flavoursome for such a delicate fish, and cooked to perfection so that it's opaline flesh fell off under the fork. We complemented with grilled purple sprouting broccoli which was kissed with just the right amount of charcoal. The tarte tatin was similarly mind-bending, topped with an orb of vanilla ice cream and lashed with ribbons of molten salted caramel, it was one of the best we've tried. Evelyn's Table certainly holds up to the promise made by The Palomar and The Barbary. Zoe and Layo should be proud.