Daffodil Mulligan - Shoreditch, London

It's always refreshing to see one of your fave chefs flex a little brawn and surprise, which is precisely what Richard Corrigan has accomplished with his new spot Daffodil Mulligan on the Silicon Roundabout (which is surprising in itself). Renowned for gilt Mayfair restos Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill, Corrigan's and Virginia Park Lodge in County Cavan, the Irishman has chosen Shoreditch as his newest launchpad, and deployed a fusillade of classic dishes with a twist to win over the locals. We popped in on a busy Friday evening to see how it was panning out. 

Daffodil Mulligan is a sight for sore eyes on City Road, offering respite and refreshment from the area's hustle and bustle. Mr Corrigan has secreted away a boisterous Irish pub in the basement, where live bands perform during the evenings, which was a blast on the opening night. Upstairs, you can crowd along the oyster bar to catch the activity from the open-plan kitchen, perch on a high-top table to avail yourself of small plates and the excellent, edgy wine list, or sit at one of the tables lining the wall for a full-on dining experience. We opted for the latter, kicking it off with a cold, commanding half of Gibney's Irish stout.

From start to finish we were charmed by Daffodil Mulligan's menu. Things got off to a grabd start with whipped smoked cod's roe and seaweed (a steal at £3), as well as crab, lovage and pickled pear, salt chilli chicken with chorizo, and vongole with "Daffy's Dressing", which saw tender cockles immersed in a rich chicken broth. Hereford prime sirloin grated over with horseradish and served with chimichurri bearnaise was a delight on the palate, especially with a side of mash sprinkled over with bone marrow crumb. Oven roasted lobster with kimchi was ineffably tender and beautifully seasoned, a dish that seems like it's going to try hard but easily succeeds. We wrapped up our meal with a dark chocolate mousse with banana and salted caramel - a lazy man's banoffee - which was indulgence incarnate. 

Daffodil Mulligan sees Corrigan, an old hand in the kitchen, cooking with the energy of a twentysomething. We loved it.