Clifford's - The City, London

Deep in London's legal district on Fetter Lane, good dining options are few and far between, strictly relegated to Pret and Pizza Express. Look closer, though, and you'll find Clifford's. The restaurant launched under the radar in summer 2018 with former Harwood Arms chef Gemma Ellis at the helm, preparing the modern classics the Michelin-starred Fulham pub was renowned for with a respect for the produce, sourcing the best meat, fish and vegetables from the British Isles and letting them sing. 

Nestled in the basement space that formerly housed wine bar 28-50, Clifford's has been reassembled to resemble an upscale gastropub. Light wooden tables and chair flank high-top black leather banquettes, hunter green and midnight blue prevail throughout the colour scheme, there's an elegant, dark bar in the corner with a drinks gantry hung with glassware. We settled down at our table next to a candlelit wine rack and tucked into the menu. 

Dishes were by-the-book British staples. Asparagus with parmesan and breadcrumbs was a remarkably fresh starter, the seasonal vegetable prepared with precision. Crispy egg with smoked cod's roe was on the other side of the spectrum - a creamy egg and an iodine egg which harmonised in a surprising way. A burger was well executed with just the right amount of fat in the mix, and a chicken kiev was prepared with wild garlic. We wrapped everything up with a brace of espresso martinis, both were skilfully executed. 

Clifford's is a great addition to Fleet Street.