Bob Bob Ricard City - The City, London

Bob Bob Ricard pre-empted the age of Instagram when it first opened its doors to Soho's well-heeled, creating a frenzy on facebook, tumblr and the extended blogosphere with its 'Press for Champagne' buttons, Wes Anderson worthy trappings and excellent Russo-tinged Gallic cuisine. So, the question many people were asking when awaiting the arrival of its younger sibling on the third floor of the Cheesegrater building (aside from when it would arrive, obviously), was how are they going to follow this up?

The 'Press for Champagne' buttons are very much still intact, except that when you press them in Bob Bob Cite your table number will flicker ticker-tape style across neon signage taking the place of ceiling moulding. The dining room is unbelievably slick, a heady cocktail of old school glamour and 1970s modernism that wouldn't feel out of place in a Kubrick film. The walls are clad with rare Japanese bookbinding paper, the colour scheme is cream, matchstick red and eye-poppingly gilt silver, with enough shiny surfaces to give a magpie and aneurysm. For anyone who wants privacy, there are two gorgeously turned-out PDRs. 

Michelin-magnet Eric Chavot has been brought in to captain the kitchens and does a brilliant job. Steak Tartare Imperiale topped the classic admixture of beef, shallots, gherkins and capers with a soft-boiled quail egg and 10g of Siberian sturgeon caviar. With a shot of Russian Standard chilled down to -18C it was a revelation. Pies are an absolute must-have and some of the best in the City, whether it's of the chicken, fish or mushroom variety. The latter is made with a champagne and truffle velouté, Jerusalem artichokes, King Oyster mushrooms, celeriac and onion soubise - absolutely exquisite. We wrapped it up with an ambrosial selection of cheese as well as grilled red fruits with a pistachio sabayon. 

Bob Bob Cite is about as extra as it gets and definitely worth the wait. Ideal for entertaining in London's busiest borough, no matter what the meal or circumstance.