Barboun - Shoreditch, London

London, and particularly east London, has been enthralled of late by the Levant, and particularly its cuisine. The latest avenue to fall in love with its wiles is Great Eastern Street in Shoreditch, on which Barboun has opened. Drawing inspiration from Lebanon, Syria and Israel, the restaurant is an exercise in pure class, launched by the team behind Hovarda and Yosma. Hus Vedat and Fez Ozalgan take the honours as chefs, cooking over live flame. 
 
The dining room is quite beautiful. Vaulted wooden ceilings imbue it with a sprawling sense of space. Gorgeous rattan screens demarcate different sections of the room, while olive trees and potted plants give the setting greenery and vibrancy. In many ways, the colour palette mirrors that of the desert, from which the menu borrows inspiration. We were similarly wooed by the clientele, who were on the smarter looking side of the East London spectrum. A bottle of Chateau Musar helped us sink into the vibe.

An opening salvo of starters hit the target. Halloumi saganaki with London honey, walnut and apricot was an unctuous treat, dangerously moreish, while prawns with chermoula popped with piscine flavour. Beetroot fritters came alive with mint and creamy whipped feta. For the mains, lamb rump with smoked aubergine, tomato, lemon and yogurt was smooth and silky with a whisper of game. Wild seabass with fermented yoghurt tarhana, saffron cream and chard was elegant and health-minded. We wrapped up with Turkish tea and ice cream, a refreshing departure. 
 
Barboun is sophisticated and sultry, ideally turned out for date night.