Asia de Cuba at St Martins Lane - Soho, London

In order to stay on top of the pile, old classics require updates, and Asia de Cuba is one of the latest to receive one. In its early days it was the hard-partying restaurant that magnetised the likes of Mick Jagger and Madonna, and later on a welcome bolthole before repairing downstairs to members' club Bungalow 8. These days it has been made a bit comfier and updated for contemporary preferences. In 1999, exposed filament bulbs were edgy. Now, every restaurant, its brother and its cousin (your local pub) have plumped for them, so mid-century modern bankers lights have taken their place. Rich velvet curtains have been added alongside outsized buttonback leather banquettes. 

The chairs have been swapped out for funky mismatched versions, and although the columns remain in the same positions (they are structural, after all) they have been decorated with new tchotchke - books, potted plants and the occasional television screen. The bar at St Martins Lane has also received an extensive makeover. More on that below. Where Asia de Cuba has particularly reinvented itself is its food. Luis Pous has been hired to helm the kitchens. The man was born and raised in Cuba, where he attended the National School of Culinary Arts in Havana before making his mark in Miami. He's carried the torch and advanced the Latino-Chino theme, however has given it a sensitive recalibration. 

On a recent visit we had the opportunity to enjoy a number of delicious dishes. A starter of red snapper ceviche was heavily lashed with cilantro, lime juice and Thai chilli, served with salty plantain chips to spoon the citrus-cured fish onto like crackers. Tunapica tartare consisted of chopped raw tuna mixed up with Spanish olives, currants, toasted coconut, almond and avocado ceviche in a crispy wonton folded into the shape of a hard taco shell. 

Shrimp churros fuse Chinese prawn toast with Spanish pastries. They're dusted with cinnamon and served with a piquant sesame, jalapeno and thai coconut curry sauce. Crispy octopus al ajillo has been scorched on the grill to imbue it with a fantastic, fragrant char. A tart vegetable escabeche with pickled lychee and garlic chips was served aside it. Desserts were equally well composed. A guava whipped layered cheesecake was padded out with a coconut tuile and dehydrated tropical fruit.

As the meal came to a close it was plain to see that Mr Pous has been around a kitchen or two. This isn't his first rodeo and he's brings competence and confidence to the plate.