Almeida - Removed from website November 2021 (closed) , London

Islington is a distinctive neighbourhood, celebrated for its intellectual heritage, its galleries and theatres, and, most recently, its burgeoning, bustling restaurant scene. Almeida has been at the centre of this for well over a decade now, yet retains the same feted reputation that it did in the outset. Now, with a recent renovation and a young head chef manning the pans, Almeida looks well positioned for further longevity.

The restaurant is tucked away on the northern side of Almeida Street, across from the internationally reputed Almeida Theatre, which has served as a springboard for an abundance of stage productions to Broadway and the West End since it opened. Upon walking in, it's apparent that Almeida has been designed to mirror its genteel environs. It's been given a modern facelift with offwhite walls, contemporary artworks, dark wooden tables and wicker chairs. On a Thursday evening it was doing a brisk trade. It's worth taking a moment to peruse the wine wall, situated just next to the open plan kitchen, where you can take a look at the many vintages on offer. Later, one of the staff members can bring you here to help match the perfect bottle to your order if you so desire.
Head chef Tommy Boland previously plied his trade at two Michelin-starred restaurants The Square and Le Cinq in Paris and most recently under the tutelage of Tom Aikens. He brings a youthful vigour and pioneering sensibility to his cooking which was even evident in the eye-opener we had before our meal - a cocktail crafted from gin, soda, rosemary and cucumber, with infusions from his mini-garden. It was the consummate aperitif, as refreshing as it was punchy, whetting our appetite whilst settling our stomachs for dinner.

Our starters arrived soon after we ordered. A finely minced steak tartar was cushioned by a bed of caramelised red onions and garnished with radish and celeriac for a sharp contrast. The other starter was much less sanguinary - a coarsely chopped beetroot salad with roast carrots, celeriac, hazelnuts and a homemade ricotta. Our main course was stone bass, pan fried and set atop a bed of al dente wild rice with brown shrimps and Swiss chard. It coupled nicely with a tightly structured white burgundy.

For dessert we split the pistachio soufflé. This was definitely one of the highlights of a phenomenal meal. The monster pudding arrived at the table piping hot with bitter chocolate ice cream brought separately. The sizable dollop was then positioned atop the lightly baked cake and quickly began to melt. Perhaps because of this, or maybe because of its rich unctuous flavours, we ate it with an unsettling alacrity. Almeida is a fantastic option for anyone dining pre- or post-theatre, but it really holds its own as a destination restaurant. For anyone after a serving of refinement prior to an evening out in Islington or the east, Almeida is ideal.