Red Rooster - Removed from website August 2021 (closed) - Shoreditch, London

Marcus Samuelsson has blazed a very unique trail during his career as a chef. Raised in Sweden but of Ethiopian descent, he moved to Manhattan at a young age, becoming the youngest chef to win three Michelin stars at Aquavit and preparing his famous shortribs for President Obama, while also opening his own restaurant - Red Rooster - in Harlem. Located in the city's nerve centre for soul food, he created a menu that splices southern American cuisine with Ethiopian, Scandinavian and even Mexican influences. It was such a hit when it launched that when The Curtain hotel opened in Shoreditch, he decided to launch a second venue.

The experience of descending into Red Rooster is one of dim lights, riotous outfits and a genuinely energetic atmosphere. There are stuffed props, comedy faux Vuitton symbols, garishly chequered chairs, random signs including those from a barbershop, a shop mannequin, mismatched paintings and pictures - but most importantly, there's amazing live music with a band playing R&B, soul and jazz that rivals many of London's clubs. We took our seats amongst a crowd of hip, foodie types and sipped on Lindy Hop Sours made with Woodford Reserve, blood orange liqueur and egg white.

We kicked things off with a couple mac and cheese bites, served with berbere and hot honey. The latter especially was revelatory. We then segued into starters. Ol' Man Shrimp 'n Grits combines pulled pork, Papa Ed's gumbo and stone-ground grits to delirious effect. The Obama-famous shortribs are a must order, but the most spectacular menu option is, hands down, the Bird Royale Feast: a cornucopia of Harlem-style whole fried chicken with waffles, southern biscuits, mac and greens, cabbage and Rooster sauce. Most notably, it arrives with sparklers.

For a fun after-work option in the east or weekend revelry, Red Rooster fits the bill completely. 

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