Marcus - Knightsbridge & Belgravia, London

Of the mighty triumvirate of London chefs to bloom under Gordon Ramsay's London restaurant empire, Marcus Wareing was the first to achieve two Michelin stars at his eponymous restaurant at the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge. It quickly achieved the upper echelons of popularity in the city - it was rare that the dining room wasn't booked to capacity. However, as anyone know who dines out in this city often, it take constant self-examination and innovation to survive in this cutthroat market, and Mr Wareing decided to give room a £1.4 million dressing down (and we don't mean a scolding).  What results is one of the most fun and easygoing fine dining experiences in the capital. 

Whilst the room is definitely more relaxed, vestiges of its former self remain. The tablecloths are white and crisply starched, with swooping light jade leather chairs circling them, as well as the occasional oxblood buttonback banquette. However, that's where it ends. The cream and green colours in the hexagonal patterned carpeting match the same in the counters and trolleys, which are decorated with assorted geometric shapes. The walls sport shiny, metallic and slick surfaces and triple pronged pendant lighting resembling posies descend intermittently from the ceilings. In essence, the room has retained its special occasion element, but any unwanted stuffiness has been swept out the door. 

Mr Wareing remains one of the few double Michelin-starred chefs to continue to rattle the pans in the kitchens and brings a creative hand to the work. Seasonality and ethical provenance are very important to the menu, but Marcus really excels in producing finessed French fine dining. We recommend the Taste menu which comprises of eight courses for £120. It changes throughout the year according to Britain's bounty, but no matter what menu you order from (there are many) you are guaranteed to experience brilliance in dishes ranging from veal sweetbreads with wet polenta and shitake to the Galloway beef fillet with snails, horseradish and kale to the much discussed custard or Moelleux. The wine list spans fifty pages, but the attentive staff will be readily available to step in if you require some direction. For an extra special evening, opt for the chef's table so that you can watch the staff perform their artistry up close and personal. 

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