Helene Darroze at The Connaught - Mayfair, London

Long known as one of London's loveliest hotel gastrodomes, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught recently closed its door for a two-month facelift and emerged from the chrysalis more lovely than ever. Ten years after opening and earning two Michelin stars, the restaurant has spread its wings with an adjusted menu, some excellent new private dining rooms and a sensitively executed redesign of its dining room which is sure to retain its grandeur for years to come. 

The room has witnessed a dazzling transformation. Formerly dark wood-panelled, it's now awash in light woods, coral and a powder pink colour palette to create an altogether more warm and inviting atmosphere. Mid-century modern furniture, lighting and wall sconces play off deeply plush banquettes and sofas, with a special, two-person Armagnac room tucked away to the side and a gorgeous, heart-shaped chef's table in the kitchens offering amphitheatre-level views. 

Funnily enough, the first dishes tonally matched the room. Flutes of Larmandier-Bernier Rosé Champagne were complemented by brown and spider crab meat bathed in a pink pomelo foam and dusted with miniscule flowers. It all felt of a piece with setting. Onion with lardo di Colonnata and barley with executed with aplomb as was hake with black pudding, Jerusalem artichoke and sorrel. Our favourite dish was likely the venison wellington with turnip, honey and whiskey, which arrived in a silver tureen and was apportioned for two. That being said, the signature baba made with Darroze family Armagnac gave it a run for the money, spread with chestnut and granny smith complements. 

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught has gone from strength to strength with its redesign and remains one of London's finest haute cuisine operations.

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