Passo - Shoreditch, London

Italian continues to gain inertia as London's most popular food trend and Passo is no exception. Nestled just south of Old Street in a broad, subtly-toned room designed by Alexander Waterworth of Soho Farmhouse and Lucca fame, the restaurant was full to the brim early on a Thursday evening. Salt yard alumnus Joe Howley is manning the pans, creating a menu that draws from all corners of Italy. Taken in tandem with the interiors, Passo fires on all cylinders. 

The interiors are open and expansive yet made intimate by an earth-hued bar and cabinetry, polished concrete floors, Italian artefacts as well as soft-brown, impeccably-sanded tables and chairs. Lighting comes in the form of large wickers chandeliers interpolated with hexagonal copper pendant lighting. We were spoiled with a bottle of biodynamic Sardinian wine - Renosu from Tenute Dettori - which was beautifully structured. 

Small plates arrived quickly. Truffled polenta chips with pecorino and rosemary; grilled corn on the cob with chilli butter, pangritata and parmigiana; and a creamy burratina with a panzanella salad and basil, all added up to be a toothsome opening salvo. We were smitten by our selection from the pasta menu. Doppio raviolo saw two thin tubes of pasta packed with confit rabbit and served with a veal reduction and rosemary. For dessert we enjoyed a cappuccino mousse with peanuts, white chocolate and salted caramel as well as a dulce de leche affogato. 

Passo has all the hallmarks of an excellent neighbourhood Italian. Well worth swinging by. 

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