Blacklock - Shoreditch, London

Gordon Ker blazed a trail for a new style of chophouse when he opened the first Blacklock in the heart of Soho. Eschewing the overly expensive cuts of meat that have been the calling card for steakhouses around the capital, he's returned the chophouse to its original incarnation - a place to sate your appetite at a reasonable price. The third and latest opening of Blacklock very much follows these rules in Shoreditch. We popped in for a Friday lunch and were well pleased. 

Situated on Rivington Street just next to Mark Hix's Tramshed, the dining room calibrates its industrial warehouse setting for ultimate classiness. Lashings of natural light shine through on hunter green banquettes and chairs and darkwood tables. This is in turn bolstered by wall sconces fashioned from industrial fittings that might have been lifted from a turn-of-the-century freighter. There are a number of cocktails available for £5 a pop and from these we ordered a bloody mary supercharged with beef stock. 

A trip to Blacklock wouldn't be complete with the pre-chop bites and the all-in chops and, as usual, we were well satisfied with both (read more here). Yet where we found the menu really singing was its sides. Dipping the chops in chilli hollandaise and green sauce was a major joy. To offset the meatiness we were especially satisfied with barbecued baby gems with anchovy dripping; charred broccoli with sugar snaps and asparagus; and a bracing, acetous heritage tomato salad. We rounded off the meal with a delicious cheesecake, brought over in an enormous, deep tray. 

Gordon and co have gone from strength to strength with Blacklock. Shoreditch is no exception.

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