Berenjak - Soho, London

Many Middle-Eastern cuisines, and particularly the ones hemming in the Mediterranean, have had their moments in the sun in Britain's capital city. But Iran arguably offers one of the region's most unique, pristine and diverse approaches to cooking, a perfect distillation of Silk Road flavours, and one that has mostly occupied the periphery of our attention. Well, until recently. Kian Samyani is of Persian extraction and formerly captained kitchens at Gymkhana and Brigadiers. Now, after pitching his idea of running and Iranian kabab house to the Sethi siblings, he's become the first chef from within the JKS stable to run his own restaurant - one inspired by the kabab houses of Tehran. 

Berenjak is nestled on Soho's relatively quiet Romilly Street just next to the newly revamped Kettner's. Guests pass beyond a tanoor, vertical rotisserie and mangal barbecue alive with a flurry of activity to reach the stripped-back but inviting dining room. Gorgeous Persian rugs are laid over terracotta tilework, with funky woven banquettes, eclectic woven cushions and a "garden" of greenery in the back imbuing the room with a little extra oxygen. Reclaimed tables and chairs, exposed filament bulbs and patches of original brickwork carve out a more contemporary vibe. We enjoyed a crisp Berenjak Lager, made bespoke by Harbour Lager with Persian limes, and ordered from the menu. 

Both the taftoon (sourdough flatbread) and the sangak (whole wheat flatbread) were ideal for scooping up Mazeh. Of these, our favourites were the Kashk e Badjemoon and the hummus by a country mile. The former - an Iranian take of baba ghanoush - was helium light and spiked with whey, walnuts, dried mint and onions. The latter was crafted with black chickpeas which gave the dip a darkly elegant hue. The kababs were mindbendingly delicious, especially the chilli-marinated poussin which smouldered on the spit, dressed in sumac, garlic and red pepper. Chilli, tarragon and yoghurt marinated chunks of lamb rump were similarly delirium-inducing. We wrapped up the meal with a brilliant dessert: a baklava ice cream sandwich. The cleverness of the dish led us to wonder why we hadn't encountered it before. 

Berenjak is a beautiful spot and flag-bearer for Persian cuisine. 100% worth a visit, even if you have to queue. The Iranian spark has been kindled. Time will tell whether it smoulders or becomes a conflagration. 

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