Fare - Clerkenwell, London

Last month we were lucky enough to pop into Bassoon Bar at the Corinthia and get a little taste of Marcis Dzelzainis and Michael Sager's prowess behind the drinks and wine list and in December we were lucky enough to visit their fully-fledged restaurant, which opened on the western end of Old Street in Clerkenwell. They've been honing their craft for quite a while now since first crossing paths at Sager & Wilde, creating a vibe that perfectly melds romance and hipness whilst putting innovative cuisine and winemaking in the spotlight.

The room seems to be checking off a tight list of east end signifiers. Reclaimed industrial setting? Check. Whitewashed brickwork? Check. Big, beautiful potted plants? Check. Servers dressed in Carhartt overall uniforms? Double check. Upstairs there's a horseshoe shaped bar that was roaring when we came in. Downstairs is a more elegant, intimate affair with a cocktail bar in its hindquarters, candlelit tables and mid-century modern pendant lighting. Connecting the two is an enormous glass skylight. After an exceptionally bracing celeriac martini, we were primed and excited for the food.

Our sommelier was a godsend, creating dynamic pairings that bettered both food and wine. Snacks of smoked anchovies with red peppers and excellent crisp and cuboid chickpea panisse with aioli found lively partners in oxidative whites. Confit fennel with chilli and curd on toast effortlessly captured the flavours of Italy. Organic herb-fed devilled chicken packed in heat in a fiery homage to the Sri Lankan dish, while smoked lamb shoulder with coco beans, garlic, harissa and turnip tops smouldered in a more subtle but no less delicious manner. We wrapped everything up with a freshly made doughnut with pear and chocolate which was a fittingly pleasant full-stop to a gorgeous meal.

Fare Bar & Canteen is already become one of the cooler spots in Clerkenwell for those with a taste for natural wine and inventive cocktails.

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