The Square - Removed from website August 2021 (closed) - Mayfair, London

The Square has been around for a while. Formerly helmed by chef Phil Howard, it maintained two Michelin stars until he left to start a private venture in Chelsea in 2017. However, it was quickly snatched up by the able hands of restaurateur Marlon Abela, owner of the two Michelin-starred Japanese kaiseki restaurant Umu, the two Michelin-starred wine-focused French eatery The Greenhouse, and one of our favourite private members' clubs - Morton's. Under his supervision, The Square has been updated for the contemporary palate with lighter, healthier fare that's easy on the waistline if not the wallet, with a lighter, ethereal design to match.

The restaurant is a masterwork in minimalism. Brushed concrete abounds both in the flooring and the hue and paint on the walls, whilst circular tables are swaddled in luxurious white cloth and topped with ultramodern banker's lights. In many ways it feels akin to an art gallery with an array of outsized contemporary paintings cladding the periphery of the room as well as a striking sculpture of a woman fashioned from tablecloth fabric created by designers Oscar Murillo and David Altmedj. For those that prefer privacy, there's a beautiful PDR tucked behind reception.

Abela has chosen Clément Leroy to captain the kitchens in the pursuit of winning back Phil Howard's second Michelin star. Formerly of Guy Savoy, he phases out heavy butter and cream dishes from the menu. There were several flavours that we found ourselves reminiscing over weeks later. Of these, one of the most salient was a scallop skilfully crosshatched and grilled, served with marsala, hazelnut and a green coffee bean sauce that really stimulated the taste buds. Roasted milk-fed veal sweetbread with squid and black truffle stood out even more, pomelo citrus tempering the dish's richness with a glare of acid.

Pan-fried foie gras was similarly offset with apple, mango and ginger, then complemented with a dessert wine. The meatier dishes performed well too. Roasted Cumbrian beef sirloin was a tour de force of bovine brilliance, served with braised cheek, swiss chard and bone marrow. Pan-fried Yorkshire roe deer gave it a run for its money, paired with Jerusalem artichoke, mushroom praline and a sumptuous bergamot cream. 

Upon leaving we had no doubt in our minds that The Square was in good hands with Marlon Abela and Clément Leroy, and wouldn't be surprised in the slightest if it secured that second star. 

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