Northbank - Removed from website August 2021 (closed) - The City, London

Thameside dining is, let's face it, often a bit overrated. Whether you're knocking back suvlaki at The Real Greek or eating tepid fish and chips at one of its many overpriced pubs, the river tends to be the attraction that brings people to the table - not the food. However, we were lucky enough to stumble across one of those rare gems that offers unparalleled views of the Thames alongside really impeccable dining.

The restaurant is located just next to the Millennium Bridge on the northern quayside. In fact, the outside terrace is so close to the bridge that you almost feel that you could reach out and touch it. It extends over towards the Tate, with views of Shakespeare's Globe, The Shard and The London Eye. For those that prefer to dine inside, or during the colder months, the interiors are restrained and classy. Floor-to-ceiling windows let in the scenery. The interiors comprise of darkwood flooring, funky wallpaper, white tablecloths and capacious booth seating. 

The Northbank was opened by Christian Butler (formerly of Baltic and Adam Street), who saw a talent in Jason Marchant. Marchant learned the trade at Claridge's and has brought his experience to bear in creating a very eclectic and seasonal menu of Modern British cuisine with a focus on Cornish produce, and all at a very reasonable price at that. On a Thursday evening, the restaurant was packed to capacity, with a rather boisterous party in the private dining room. We settled in with cocktails. The Bloody Mary was one of the best we've recently had - it put us in a sanguinary frame of mind.

A Falmouth crab and clotted cream tart seemed like a bit of a gamble, but ended up working really nicely, the sweetness of the crustacean folded in nicely with the cream and the pillowy shortcrust. Charred mackerel with beetroot, horseradish and a goat's cheese risotto was a nice interplay of sweetness, piquancy and creaminess. For mains we ordered honey spiced duck breast with confit duck cottage pie and Somerset plums was a hefty dish - the poultry was strongly flavoured and the plums were a nice counterpoint. However, the steak was really a force of nature. 

A ribeye of belted Galloway was thickly seamed with deposits of white fat, the cow must have ate very well indeed in the final stages of its life. The flavour was deep and far-reaching, with a sweet savour wafting off its Maillard crust. On the side, we enjoyed onion rings, sautéed spinach and béarnaise sauce.  Desserts were also very well executed, particularly the whisky marmalade crème brûlée and the double chocolate tart with black pepper ice cream and strawberries. 

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