City Social - City, London

Much has been made of Mr Jason Atherton in recent months. Following on from his inaugural London resto, Pollen Street Social, Atherton has had a splurge of openings, ranging from a friendly neighbourhood joint (Little Social) to one of the grandest dining rooms in the capital (Berners Tavern). Always the pioneer, the man with the Midas touch has now put high-rise dining in his crosshairs. Atherton has transformed the skyscraper restaurant experience into what it ideally should be: a paragon of class and sophistication. The design scheme is dark and masculine, almost moody. Views were unobstructed a decade ago when the space originally housed Rhodes24, but recently a garden of towering edifices have sprung up on all sides - imparting the sensation of being in a true metropolis. As with all of his other restaurants, dishes are just so, impeccably conceived and perfectly executed. A starter of pig's trotter and ham hock served with crispy Mrs Brown's black pudding, apple and Madeira rivalled that of Pierre Koffman's signature dish at The Berkeley. It was stupidly rich, a real punch to the kisser. The asparagus salad was a little more subtle; given some heft and savour with a bone marrow crumble, a poached egg and a two year old pecorino. Mains remained true to form. A dish of Creedy Carver duck was artfully plated, interposed with boulangère potatoes, berry chutney and roast shallots. However, a charcoal grilled slab of Lake District fillet steak elicited a twinge of envy. It was served with a small salad, both béarnaise and peppercorn sauce, and a tin of duck fat chips. A bourbon vanilla custard tart rounded the evening off nicely, complemented by a nutmeg and milk sorbet - comfort food par excellence. City Social does many things well, including a continuance of Atherton's flawless track record. Whether you work in the Square Mile or not, this restaurant is worth the ascent. Don't forget the panoramic Social Bar if you are dining or not, which offers some amazing cocktails and a seductive scene that feels exclusive and decadent, with Shorditchian cred thrown in too.

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