Launceston Place , London

Launceston Place has been presiding over its Kensington setting since the heady days of the 1990s, when it famously won broadsheet inches, being touted by the late Princess Diana as her favourite restaurant. Obviously, this fine dining establishment has exhibited some longevity, rolling with the punches and vicissitudes of British haute cuisine to emerge, under the aegis of Head Chef Timothy Allen, with a set of coveted accolades. In June 2012, only three months after Mr Allen had taken the reins in the kitchens, critics at the Michelin Guide had determined that it was deserving of a star. It's perhaps even more notable that in September 2013, Launceston Place was one of only seven restaurants in the United Kingdom to win 4 AA Rosettes at the AA Hospitality Awards. But are the critics always right? Not always. But in this case, yes - very much so.

Before we touch on the gastronomy, however, it's important to describe the ambience of the venue. One can see why Diana, a public figure often harried by the media, would prefer this dining room. It's permeated with a sense of tranquility. With a floor scheme comprising of two separate rooms conjoined by a wide corridor, there's plenty of space and privacy, however if that's insufficient, there's always The Chef's Office downstairs, a chic, hidden PDR with a screen streaming live footage from the kitchen. Back upstairs, crisp white tablecloths, chocolate brown banquettes, and artworks depicting clear, austere British landscapes impart a seriousness to the room, preparing the diner for the formality of the food to follow.  

Timothy Allen earned his cooking chops through incredibly long hours and hard work, spending seven years at the double-Michelin starred Whatley before moving on to the capital. We were lucky enough to sample his tasting menu, which showcased an incredible array of his most accomplished dishes. As with most D&D restaurants, the experience was bolstered, perhaps even characterised, by an astute sommelier who really teased out the nuances of each dish with a wine pairing. Following the amuse bouche, the meal commenced with cold smoked and grilled Cornish mackerel served with rosé gooseberries and tartare, charred cucumber and iced grained mustard. The sophistication of the accoutrements was arresting, particularly the mustard which was cast into a sphere of punchy sorbet. This was followed by a warm, hearty Allenheads grouse with cobnut puree, lardo di colonnata and, most importantly, a crumbled frozen foie gras. The autumnal, nutty flavours and creamy texture melded perfectly with the young poultry. Of all the dishes, the real showstopper was the pure pistachio soufflé accompanied by pistachio ice cream. It was deliciously light with a crisp crust that, when paired with a chilled glass of Sauternes, triggered a palpable sense of bliss.

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