Smoke & Salt - Brixton
July 26, 2017
By Nick Savage
When we first stumbled upon Smoke & Salt when they’d taken over the top floor of Islington’s Chapel Bar, we were admittedly quite enamoured with the affordable haute cuisine pioneered by Remi Williams and Aaron Webster. So, upon being invited to head down to their new location in the shipping container that formerly housed Kricket, we jumped the train down to Pop Brixton with alacrity.
Being in a shipping container, the dining room is quite intimate in dimensions which foster a buzzy and lively atmosphere. There’s plenty of seating with tables of two lining one side of the space and a long high counter with stools running the length of the other. The interior of the space has been softened with dark wooden strapping and ship’s lighting. After a pair of Boston Sours with whisky and sorrel, we opted for an Opta Dao Tinta from Portugal which covered the bases nicely.
We opted for the tasting menu and were taking on a culinary sojourn through America, north Africa and southeast Asia. It all began with table treats. Green and white runner beans were served with a punchy aioli that didn’t disappoint. Smoked ricotta roughed up a salad of heirloom tomatoes, spiked with whey vinaigrette. The herby freshness was a pleasure (and cleanser) to the palate.
Merguez tartare was a fascinating dish that almost recalled lahmacun, the lamb sausage was served with a piquant harissa sauce and crisp flatbread. Chalkstream trout was complemented by a sriracha and jalapeno salsa that continued to spice up our mouths. From the grill section we enjoyed Hispi cabbage with pickled peanut and smoked tofu and a chicken leg served with truffle ponzu and daikon slaw.
We finished off our meal with a banana and lime milkshake spiked with rum and a London Mess made with meringue, rose and berries. All in a thoroughly excellent meal.
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