Fallow at Crispin - Spitalfields
February 13, 2020
Chefs Jack Croft and Will Murray have been kicking ass and taking names since graduating from two-Michelin starred restaurant Dinner By Heston, going from strength to strength across London’s residency circuit, serving seasonal Modern British cuisine which puts vegetables centre stage (touted as root to stem cooking). Their newest project is Fallow at Crispin in Spitalfields, which will run until the end of March when they shift over to the vaunted 10 Heddon Street space in Mayfair. We dropped in on a busy Thursday to see what was going on.
For those who haven’t visited, the building that houses Crispin on White’s Row is gobsmacking, a giant rhomboid shape positioned on a long room of floor-to-ceiling windows. Jack and Will are visible at the long theatre kitchen spanning half the room, toiling over hot pans and adding a certain sizzle to the vibe. Stefano Cazzato is an itinerant somm-for-hire and took us on a journey with natural wine, including pairings such as Zanotto col Fondo prosecco superiore, Rosso della Motta centovigne from Piedmont, and a brilliant Torcuato Heurtas orange wine from Andalucia. The matched glasses really helped to make this an exceptional meal.
We enjoyed a vegetarian six-course menu that pulled no punches, starting off with hen keema with a pullet egg and kohlrabi before a salvo of the increasingly ubiquitous smashed and deep-fried pink fir potatoes with smoked leek and black garlic. Winter tomatoes with fennel and goat’s curd helped to cleanse the palate before an unctuous plate of delica pumpkin with white beans and cavolo nero. We wrapped the meal up with two desserts: a coffee ganache with pistachio crumble and coconut and Yorkshire rhubarb with white chocolate granola and yoghurt.
Fallow has all of the hallmarks of a hit restaurant. We’re excited to see what kind of firepower these young guns will bring to their future projects.
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