BOB’s Lobster - London Bridge
June 11, 2019
To many, the lobster roll is the perfect summer dish. A symphony of simplicity, comprising of three ingredients: bread, sauce and crustacean. It’s a rather tricky one to pull off in Britain, which is down to wrangling a (usually international) supply chain, with lobster from Maine or Canada or, more expensively, from native shores. BOB’s Lobster was one of the first to get it right, and following hot on the heels of BOB’s food truck success, they have taken their operation bricks and mortar. Well, concrete and corrugated iron to be more specific.
Set across from Vinegar Yard in Borough, BOB’s occupies a railway arch with lofty ceilings and industrial vibes. On the western side of the room you can’t fail to miss the 1957 VW foodvan which has been retrofitted as an ad hoc oyster shucking station. Otherwise the restaurant is split by a middle island / wine display where you can take a gander at some of the pricier options on the list. There’s a long bar to the rear of the room backed by another wine display, monochrome art deco tiling as well as art deco pendant lighting. We ordered a brace of bloody marys which were just the right balance of piquancy and emulsified horseradish, and dove into the extensive seafood-focused menu.
Dinner kicked off with a litany of excellent starters: sashimi tuna tacos were spiked with wasabi guac and chipotle crema and nestled in waxy crisp wonton shells; kale hush puppies were deliciously saline and a beautiful complement to a zingy albariño; oyster mushroom ceviche was a foil of freshness, with white miso aubergine, sesame and an agave ponzu dressing. For mains, we were smitten with a supersized crabcake. Lobster mac ‘n cheese was a melty amalgam of three cheeses and a lobster bisque bechamel, crowned with lobster tail and fried shallots. But, finally, the lobster roll was a buttery sum of its parts, served with a cooling rapeseed may and celery salt seasoning.
Suffice to say, there wasn’t any room for dessert. For east coast American-style seafood with a little finesse and a lot of fun, BOB’s Lobster is a delicious bet.
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