Return of the King
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : Modern European
Address : 44 Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, London, W1K 2HP, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : thebettermentmayfair.com
Opening Times : Mon-Sun: 6.30am-10.30pm
Closest Tube : Bond Street
Jason Atherton rose to prominence as head chef at Maze in Grosvenor Square, winning the plaudits that marked it out as one of London‘s best restaurants in 2005. Now, fourteen years later, he‘s proven himself the consummate restaurateur with a full portfolio of culinary successes in all corners of the world, and has returned to the scene of his initial ascendancy to open The Betterment at The Biltmore in Mayfair. We visited to see how he was bedding in.
The dining room is a work of gilt art deco brilliance. Guests eyes will drift skywards to the recessed, gold-inlaid ceiling mouldings that rivet the attention. Otherwise, crisp white wall panelling plays off green and grey banquettes, punctuated occasionally by striking contemporary artworks. The wine display and glass display above the bar are particularly easy on the eyes - set to match head sommelier Stefan Kobold‘s excellent wine list. There are also two private dining rooms in which to enjoy head chef Paul Walsh‘s food.
Fresh from City Social, he‘s firing on all cylinders. We started off with brown crab on toast, its flaky tendrils of flesh glistening with lemon butter. It was everything the dish should be. We were feeling the crustacean that afternoon, and also enjoyed an excellent starter of king crab with two types of citrus: yuzu and lime. It was lithe yet lashed with flavour. Roast chicken is laden under-skin with trompette mushrooms and served with a creamy Albufera sauce. We wrapped up our meal with a bitter chocolate tart with Tahitian vanilla ice cream as well as a baked goat‘s cheese cheesecake with autumn fruit and gingerbread, which were two of the most toothsome desserts we‘ve had of late.
It‘s early days yet for The Betterment but Atherton is as on point as he‘s ever been. For those looking for the traditional Mayfair fine dining experience, we heartily recommend it.