Ten Room at Cafe Royal offers accomplished French food
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : British
Address : 68 Regent Street, Soho, London, W1B 4DY, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.hotelcaferoyal.com/restaurants-and-bars/ten-room/
Opening Times : Daily 8am-12am
Closest Tube : Piccaddilly Circus
When Ten Room at Café Royal first opened in 2012, the restaurant initially received lukewarm reviews from a couple of critics, but when we dined there we found that the Ten Room had firmly found its feet, with the kitchens moving at full speed and delivering contemporary European food par excellence with all the pomp and ceremony that you‘d expect in one of central London‘s most storied hotels.
Upon entering the restaurant it‘s clear to see the generous amount of time and resources that have been spent on redesigning the dining room as a top class entry. There‘s a brown and cream colour palette with a glut of well-stuffed, leather banquettes. The designers have followed the lead of fine dining joints like Fera and whipped away the coverings, with exposed slate tables that are a touch more relaxed whilst maintaining the calibre of cooking that you‘d expect in the most formal of settings.
Andrew Turner, who formerly worked at Wiltons and Roux at The Landau, serves as executive chef for the hotel, whilst Armand Sablon, erstwhile head chef of Bistrot Bruno Loubet, helms the kitchens of the Ten Room specifically. We were duly impressed by the quality and consistency demonstrated on Sablon‘s summer menu. A starter of lobster with apple and fresh water prawn showcased the sweetness of the crustacean without overwhelming it one jot, while a terrine of duck foie gras and smoked magret swung the other way, taking no prisoners in the skirmish for taste buds.
The promise of Sablon‘s earlier menu entries was confirmed when the main courses arrived. A braised daube of venison was cooked low and slow for such a lengthy duration as to render any gaminess null, the velvety meat then offset with an astringent salsa verde and a smooth spring onion mash. A rump of lamb was a glistening paean to the gods of meat, served with delectably crisp lamb‘s sweetbreads and a ratatouille as good as you can find in Provence. It was then drizzled with a pitch perfect Parisienne sauce.
Desserts were rich and complex. A crème brulée was infused with Tahitien vanilla, then tricked out with cherries, almonds and miniature meringues. Chocolate ‘royale‘ mousse was offset by mint and Earl Grey ice cream, and then latticed with honeycomb. The chefs at Café Royal have made a statement with their newest rendition of the Ten Room. They‘re proclaiming to London and the greater world that they have the chops to create food worthy of the locale.