Seasonal British cuisine in Kensington
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : Seasonal British
Address : 96 Kensington High Street , Kensington , London, W8 4SG, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.kensingtonpavilion.com
Opening Times : Mon-Thurs 7am–11pm, Fri 7am–12am, Sat 10am-12am, Sun 10am-late
Closest Tube : High Street Kensington
Adam Simmonds, like Simon Rogan, is no stranger to the limelight yet lives outside of London, wielding a Michelin star for his culinary craft at Danesfield House in Buckinghamshire. Similarly to Rogan, he‘s put the capital city in his crosshairs, and has chosen the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea as his target with the opening of Pavilion. As part of a private business members‘ club, it‘s suitably opulent, with interiors by designLSM. The restaurant, bar and deli additionally includes a florist, a central bar constructed from Marquina marble with brass inlays, illuminated pillars and a brass wine gantry. To the right of the bar is an open plan kitchen with a large, transparent-fronted meat aging fridge and butchery.
We visited on a sunny Thursday afternoon and were welcomed with some delicious aperitifs - a blend of Sauvignon Blanc with pisco, lavender and vanilla salt was served ice cold in a tumbler with a sprig of lavender. Our starters were as far away from each other on the flavour spectrum as possible. A delicate ceviche salad consisted of citrus-cured scallops with lemon confit, baby gems, green almonds, vanilla and camomile was a far cry from the punchy heft of slow cooked pork belly with homemade black pudding, Scottish langoustine, smoked pineapple and lardo. The latter was a masterclass in salty, meaty intensity. Our mains were similarly divergent. A roast tranche of gilthead bream was accompanied by confit red pepper, Iberico ham, squid a la plancha. While it was savoury and delicious, it didn‘t quite punch around the mouth like the steaks, which all come to the table alongside beer pickled onions, truffle salad, parsley crumb, chips in beef dripping, and an ambrosial whipped bone marrow, which teased deep, flavourful nuances out of the fillet steak.
The dessert course echoed the complexity of our earlier dishes. A strawberry parfait with freeze dried strawberries would have been commonplace had it not been for a garden-fresh pea sorbet, which was extremely light and unusual. A bitter chocolate marquise with mint, aerated chocolate and mint ice cream was a bit more straightforward and a bit more indulgent. Even the cheese course was pioneering. In this case it was a selection of French and English farmhouse cheeses served with biscuits and garnishes calibrated to complement the selections, including crumbled cocoa and chilli oil, Hendrix infused cucumber, charred pineapple and dehydrated watermelon. We were duly impressed by the food at Pavilion, and Adam Simmonds ambitious menu, which is available at a very reasonable price when juxtaposed with other, often lesser, London eateries.