Innovative Chinese Cuisine from Andrew Wong
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : Chinese
Address : 19 Bloomberg Arcade, London, EC4N 8AR, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.kymsrestaurant.com
Opening Times : Mon-Sat: 12pm-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Sun: 12pm-6pm
Closest Tube : Bank, Mansion House, Cannon Street
Andrew Wong‘s rise to culinary supremacy is the stuff of lore. After taking over his family‘s Cantonese restaurant in Pimlico following his father‘s death, he used his extensive knowledge of Chinese cuisine alongside a background in chemistry to stage a coup on London‘s dim sum scene, reimagining it under the auspices of A Wong. Since then the restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star and become quite a tall order to book. On the wake of these successes he‘s opened Kym‘s in Bloomberg Arcade and broadened his horizons to re-examine traditional Chinese recipes from all corners of the broad, fascinating country.
The dining room is well-suited for a City audience, exuding all of the slick sultriness that imbues a business dinner or date with a frisson of excitement. There‘s a mezzanine area above the open plan kitchen, where Andrew himself is on display, martialling the pass with hawkish attention. The ground floor dining room is presided over by an ersatz cherry tree that offers a sense of night-time serenity. We sampled a few selections from the cocktail section whilst poring over the food menu. They twist up their Negroni by replacing gin with yuzu-infused sake. The Sichuan Sour spices a Sochu sour with Sichuan pepper, setting off a symphony of fizzing and numbness in the mouth.
We‘d be hard-pressed to mention dishes that didn‘t work so we‘ll focus on our favourites. Silken tofu with garlic soy and 100 year old egg as well as Sichuanese spiced aubergine were both masterworks of smoothness. Uyghur fries with thai shallot and mango powder as well as French bean fritters were both crispy indulgences. For those who would like a selection from the grill, order the Three Treasure, a trove of Cantonese crispy pork belly with honey mustard; slow poached soy chicken with ginger relish; and Iberico pork char sui. We rounded off our meal with a dessert of raspberry sorbet with white chocolate ‘Strong Cloud‘ and Sichuan pepper.
The City was visibly lacking in viable Chinese restaurants. Not so anymore.