Sleek, seductive and sultry members' club serving premium modern Cantonese fare
Category : Members-Club
| Cuisine : Chinese, Japanese, Pan Asian, Thai
Address : 17 Mercer Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9QJ, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.crazybeargroup.co.uk
Opening Times : Tues-Thurs 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am Sun-Mon Closed
Closest Tube : Covent Garden, Leicester Square
Things have changed a lot since Crazy Bear opened its inaugural venue 25 years ago. Tastes in music, décor and food have all experienced tectonic shifts. 1994 was the era of Britpop. Now it's a source of inspiration and nostalgia. Crazy Bear Clubhouse in Covent Garden was formerly one of our favourite places to drop into for punchy modern Cantonese food and an eclectic range of cocktails. On a Thursday evening we decided to revisit to see whether it had aged well.
The design at Crazy Bear has always been a talking point, a work of leather in carmine red and inky black that looks as if it might have been cribbed from a fin-de-siecle Parisian bordello of the highest order: Moulin Rouge meets Studio 54. Banquettes, walls and ceilings are buttonback leather; curtains are heavy and brocaded, and the entire space is replete with shiny surfaces. For oenophiles we recommend a trip to The Champagne Lanson Lounge - The Clubhouse is the only venue in the world to offer Champagne Lanson's entire prestigious range. We were led down to a padded boite studded with Swarovski crystals, where we settled down with a Jack Rich cocktail (Calle 23 tequila, montelobos mezcal, home yuzu cordial, home triple sec) and a Barra Boys (Portobello road gin, home triple sec, rhubarb and tarragon soda, clear grapefruit).
The set menu deployed southern Chinese flavours to dizzying effect. Our meal commenced with house-made shrimp crackers and assorted dim sum that was skilfully finessed - we were particularly please with the prawn and chive har gau and pork, prawn and scallop shu mai. Crispy Peking duck was rich and toothsome. A fillet of Alaskan black cod roasted in miso and sake was pure caramel sumptuousness, while supreme lobster noodles put an entire Canadian crustacean to use with shallots, ginger, spring onion and corianders. We were deliriously full by the time we padded back upstairs, and satiated…
Crazy Bear remains on top of its game 25 years later - and The Clubhouse is a prime example.